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Santa Rosa Wineries
By Heather Irwin Matanzas Creek Winery Lowdown: Matanzas Creek is an off-the-beaten-path gem that draws nearly hysterical enophiles and gardeners in equal numbers. Built in the late '70s, Matanzas Creek was the impossible dream of Sears heiress Sandra MacIver and her husband, Bill. Both knew almost nothing about business or agriculture, but somehow ended up creating some of the most sought-after super-premium wines in the country. Recently sold to Jess Jackson of the Kendall-Jackson empire, some devotees say the wines have suffered in recent years, though they continue to impress many critics as superb. Set amidst lush lavender gardens, the tasting room is a peaceful, scented retreat, despite a sometimes chilly reception by the tasting staff. Mouth value: Matanzas Creek is primarily known for two things: Chardonnay and Merlot. For lovers of oaky Chard, the 2002 Chardonnay ($30) delivers with a smoky, toasty flavor and lots of vanilla. However, unlike other flabby, overly creamy Chards, the Matanzas Creek retains a strong mineral and fruit flavor (apple, tangerine), keeping it crisp and dynamic. The best buy is the 2002 Sauvignon Blanc ($20) with tons of bright citrus and lemon. Less oaky than the Chardonnay, the Sauvignon Blanc is a simpler wine to pair with food--especially bright, spicy ethnic dishes. Matanzas Creek also features a number of solid Merlots, the 2001 ($30) is mixed with a small amount of Syrah and has a spicy, exotic flavor with cedar and cinnamon. The 1999 Merlot Reserve ($60) is more refined with hints of vegetable and pepper. The 2000 Merlot Port ($25) is a yummy toffee- and coffee-influenced dessert wine. The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) is passable but unexceptional at the price, while the 2001 Syrah ($25), though a bit heavy on the tannins, has lots of chewy complexity with smoke, pepper and dark fruit. If you've got $155 (or more) burning a hole in your pocket, you may be able to secure a bottle of the very rare and coveted Journey wines--the pick of each year's barrel litter (and sometimes not produced at all). The current Journey wine is a 1999 Meritâge. Don't miss: In marked contrast to the highly cultivated fruit and vegetable gardens of the Kendall-Jackson Estate, Matanzas Creek has a diverse landscape of native grasses and plants that echo the natural surroundings. For many people, the six separate gardens usurp the wines as a primary reason for visiting. The large lavender fields feature a variety of the deeply scented purple plant, and the winery offers bath and home products made with lavender in the gift shop. There are also water and shade gardens, a pathway and staircase garden dotted with contemporary and wildlife art. A self-guided tour is available during tasting-room hours. Five-second snob: Matanzas Creek is one of only a handful of wineries located in the new Bennett Valley appellation. The microclimate, bordered by three mountains, has a slightly longer growing season and benefits from cool coastal fog, giving the grapes a concentrated flavor. Spot: Matanzas Creek Winery, 6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa. Open daily, 10am-4:30pm. Tasting fee, $5. 707.528.6464. (From the "Swirl n' Spit" column in the August 18-24, 2004 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.)St. Francis Winery Lowdown: The monastically inspired winery off of Highway 12 would make ol' St. Francis proud. Named for the pauper saint whose followers brought the first vines to the New World, St. Francis Winery is about simplicity, beauty and big juicy reds that inspire hallelujahs all around. The newish visitors center is all about warm wood and stucco. Designed in the Cal-Mex mission style with fireplaces and tile, the simplicity of the design is punctuated by the winery's signature bell tower. The tasting bar stretches the length of the room, offering expansive views of the vineyards and the Mayacamas Mountains through soaring windows. Mouth value: Though it wasn't always so, reds--specifically Merlot--are St. Francis' strength. The Behler Merlot (1999, $45) gets consistently high scores, but a little more intriguing to this palate was the Rockpile Vineyard Red Wine (2001, $35), made with a mix of 60 percent Merlot and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The Rockpile appellation is producing amazing fruit that give the finished wine a deep, rich, somewhat spicy flavor. The higher-end wines produced at the winery are those from King's Ridge Vineyard, most notably the Cabernet Sauvignon (1998, $85), offering a velvety, purple color with layer upon layer of complexity. The Old Vine Zinfandel (2001, $22) is also a favorite, with tons of spice and fire. Don't miss: If you blink, you'll miss the town of Kenwood, home to local favorite, Cafe Citti (19049 Hwy. 12, Kenwood, 707.833.2690). At this mom-and-pop-style Italian eatery, you order at the counter from a dizzying array of homemade items, including fresh pastas and focaccia. A family favorite is the tuna, egg, mayo sandwiches on ciabatta which are loaded with all of the above--including the ultracreamy, ultradecadent house-made mayonnaise. Don't be surprised if you end up dining with a rancher tracking in mud from the farm, wine tourists and a local society matron just back from getting her hair shampooed. The consistently excellent Italian dishes pumped out every day bring in a cross-section of Sonoma culture. Five-second snob: Rockpile is Sonoma County's newest appellation. Funny name, serious grapes. The appellation is actually a ridge of about 150 acres stretching from Lake Sonoma to Mendocino. Though most of the vineyards are less than 10 years old, they're producing some very interesting wines because of the unique microclimate above the fog that gets intense sun and cooler springs. Zinfandel is among the most popular varietals coming from the area, although Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Syrah and Syrah are also being produced from Rockpile grapes. Spot: St. Francis Winery, 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa. Open daily, 10am to 5pm. $5 tasting fee; $10 reserve tasting; $20 reserve tasting with food pairing. 800.543.7713. (From the "Swirl n' Spit" column in the June 9-15, 2004 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.)Suncé Winery Lowdown: Frane Franicevic has fallen a little bit in love with his '03 Mistral. He describes the mix of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc with a combination of fatherly pride and creative accomplishment, all the while smiling a little quixotically at the unlabeled green bottle he's about to uncork. Though the wine has barely had time to miss its oak barrel incubator (it was bottled two weeks ago), Franicevic isn't afraid of giving his friends--or a nosy taster--a sneak peak at what's to come. As the sun streams into the tasting room from the windows behind him, he pours the wine and crosses his arms across his belly approvingly. Vibe: Born to a Croatian winemaking family, sun, wine and grapes are part of Franicevic's blood despite the fact that he's actually a doctor of psychology with no formal winemaking education. He just kind of ended up in wine country while working on his dissertation. "I'm not a fan of the city. I like accessible parking," he says with a thick accent. Taking a break from Freud and Jung, Franicevic decided to make a few bottles of wine "for fun" with friends, winning a number of amateur awards over the next few years. In 1991 he decided he had more wine than he knew what to do with and created his first winery, One World. Suncé, which means "sun" in Croatian, was founded in 1998 on a former horse farm. A less than formal affair, Suncé's tasting room is fashioned from a detached studio in back, the Pinot Noir vineyards from former horse pastures and the barrel rooms from the barn. A tiny pink bicycle is parked behind the family's home, which is just a few feet away. New doors, carved in Romania, lean against the siding, waiting to be hung. Despite the rustic charm, the wines hold up to more than just family appeal. Suncé's wines are consistent winners in major regional competitions--most recently the San Francisco Chronicle's winetasting competition held in March--with many sold-out before they ever reach the commercial distribution. Mouth value: At first blush, reds seem to be the heavy hitters. Suncé's Pinot Noirs are consistently outstanding, each unique. The 2002 Russian River Rodella Vineyard ($34) comes from 50-year-old vines and reflects a softer, more European style. The 2002 Piner Ranch Pinot Noir ($34) is a more fruit-forward Californian-style Pinot, with more intense, grapey flavors. Franicevic's Zinfandels are also remarkable, with the 2001 Clear Lake Old Vines Zin ($24) winning a gold award from the Chronicle. We liked the dry fruit and floral notes of the 2002 Amador Old Vine Zin (Winzerhof Vineyard) for just $20. Franicevic's current batch of whites are young, but promising. Tasted side by side, the '02 Fumé Blanc is oaky and toasty, while the '03 Sauvignon Blanc (just bottled) hints at the bright floral to develop over the next several months. Five-second snob: Know the difference between Fumé Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc? Both use Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but a fumé is traditionally aged in oak barrels, imparting an earthier, oakier flavor. The Sauvignon Blancs are often aged in steel tanks to give a crisper, lighter taste. Spot: Suncé Winery, 1839 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa. Open daily, 10:30am to 5pm. No tasting fee. 707.526.9463. (From the "Swirl n' Spit" column in the May 19-25, 2004 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.) |
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